Visited July 2017
The Canadian Rockies in The Summer – you just stare and stare and hope that you will remember the incredible beauty. The pristine turquoise of the lakes, the incredible height and dominance of the mountains, the glaciers still magnificent in spite of global warming and the bears! Definitely one of my more memorable trips.
We spent a week doing a self drive road trip. We landed in Calgary from Vancouver, picked up our rental car and headed for Banff where we stayed for 3 nights and then drove up to Jasper where we stayed for another 3 nights. Returned to Calgary for one night as we had an early morning international flight the next day.
banff
Banff is a picturesque town at the southern end of The Canadian Rockies. We stayed at The Rundlestone Lodge, a short walk to the center. Although not enormous we enjoyed strolling around Banff which is more up scale and commercialized than Jasper on the Northern side of The Canadian Rockies. We ate a couple of times at Pacini – an Italian restaurant which we thoroughly enjoyed. We used Banff as our base to explore the Southern part of the Canadian Rockies and the surroundings. Suggest popping into The Banff Information Center which is in the middle of the town – very helpful and gave us ideas, maps (yes not digital ones!) and suggestions.
lake moraine
Lake Moraine has to be one of my favorites. It was also the first lake we visited. This glacier fed lake surrounded by high peaks with snow is simply spectacular. Got there early so we had parking. The parking lot is small and fills up quickly so suggest getting there as early as possible and preferably before 09:00.
The drive to Moraine Lake, via The Valley of the Ten Peaks, is beautiful. There is an easy short marked trail around the one side of the Lake. The glacial water of the Lake is turquoise almost as if it has been painted. Simply exquisite. Climb the rock pile to get a stunning view of the Lake.
takakkaw falls & Emerald Lake
After leaving, sadly, Moraine Lake, we drove west on the TransCanada #1 to Yoho National Park. Our first stop was at The Takakkaw Falls which in Cree means “magnificent”. Appropriate but understatement. These falls are more than 250 meters high, one of the highest in Canada, and in the Summer the water pounds the mountain going down creating a roaring sound. What an experience. From the parking lot it is a short walk to the base of the falls.
Continue down the road to another gem – Lake Emerald. Here there is a loop trail walk however just after we arrived it started raining heavily (yes in the summer!) so left this for next time. The glacial water here is stunningly beautiful – wouldn’t miss out on this lake.
We had a late lunch at Truffle Pigs Bistro in Field which is a tiny village just off Highway #1 – highly recommend this wonderful restaurant.
lake louise
With the iconic Fairmont Chateau, Lake Louise, is probably the most well known and famous of the Lakes. The Lake which is glacier fed is unarguably stunning but crowded. There is an easy short trail of about 1.5 km to the end of the Lake – when you get there look back at the stately Fairmont Chateau which also makes for a good toilet and refreshment stop (there is a cafeteria as well as other eating options). For parking try get here either by 09:00 or in the late afternoon.
bow valley parkway & johnston canyon
We returned to Banff via the Bow Valley Parkway – Road 1A. This is a scenic drive where you are supposed to see wild life – we didn’t. This drive brings you to The Johnston Canyon which should not be missed. Do the boardwalk trail to the waterfalls. It is easy, doable, beautiful and at the end stunningly spectacular. No exaggeration!
banff gondola & sulphur mountain
Definitely worthwhile. On a clear day the view from the gondola is breathtaking. Once at the top do the self guided Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk.
icefields parkway
We left Banff in the morning and spent the entire day driving this spectacular scenic drive which starts at Lake Louise and ends in Jasper. When you leave Banff drive for about 55 km west on TransCanada Highway #1 to Lake Louise and then start driving north on the Icefields Parkway. There are loads of reasons to make numerous stops on the way. One stop is more beautiful than the other.
bow summit & peyto lake
This is one highly recommended stop on the Icefields Parkway. Walk the Timberline Trail, short but steep uphill climb. At the top – an incredible view of Peyto Lake.
jasper
On the way to Jasper you pass the Galcier Skywalk & Columbia Icefields, Athabasca Falls & Sunwapta Falls all of which we did from Jasper. We stayed at The Maligne Lodge a very adequate motel on the outskirts of Jasper. Jasper is a small laid back town with one main street of restaurants and tourist shops. It is a great base to explore the northern part of the Canadian Rockies. I preferred Banff.
glacier skywalk & columbia icefields discovery center
The Columbia Icefields are about 2 1/2 hours drive from Banff and about 1 1/2 hour drive from Jasper. We did it from Jasper. Highly recommend this experience:- First drive The Ice Explorer to the Glacier where you get to walk on the Athabasca Glacier and then you get transported to the Glacier Skywalk. The design and color of the Skywalk blend into the natural surroundings. The Glacier Skywalk is an easy and flat boardwalk. It affords stunning views with a drop of some 280 meters into the Sunwapta Valley. Breathtaking. Look closely and you might see wildlife. We did.
Athabasca Falls & sunwapta Falls
The water of these two majestic falls comes from the Athabasca Glacier. We were there in August and the power of the water and the sound were mind boggling.
What makes these Falls so special, is not their height nor their width, but the force of the water falling into the gorge.
maligne lake & spirit island
Getting to the Maligne Lake:- from the east end of Jasper drive on Highway 16 east for about 3 km and then take the turnoff for Maligne Lake Road to the right. You go over an iron bridge across the Abathasca River. At the fork, keep left and continue for about 48 km until you arrive at Maligne Lake. Without stopping it should take about an hour. We did the cruise on the lake which takes you to Spirit Island. Kodak made this tiny island famous – a photograph of the Island was hung in Grand Central in New York and became identified with Kodak. More recently Apple used a photograph/image of the island in one of their promotions. Supposed to be one of the most photographed islands. A little disappointing when you see it – it is so tiny!
Tips:
- Before leaving Banff fill up with gas/petrol as there are no gas/petrol stations after Lake Louise until you come to Jasper;
- We were there in the so-called height of the Summer – however early in the morning and late afternoon it was still cold – light jackets are necessary;
- To walk on the Glacier you need closed shoes with appropriate soles – it is very slippery;
- There are no toilets at the Glacier Skywalk so use the restrooms at the Discovery Center before leaving for the Skywalk;
- Book on line with Brewster for all the attractions you want to do:- Banff Gondola, Ice Explorer, Glacier Walk, cruise on Maligne Lake etc – it works out cheaper and these attractions get booked up months in advance.